A 30-minute (37 kilometers) drive
from Kuching brings us to a Malaysian village built on stilts over the river: Kampung Bako. Another 25 minutes boat ride out in the South China Sea to reach
this coastal park. The park HQ is at Telok Assam but from the coast you would
never know as it’s totally hidden behind trees. First time visitors are often
confused when the boat suddenly turns towards the shore on what appears to be a
collision course with the dense mangroves. But the skilled boatmen head for a
narrow channel that leads to the small jetty at the HQ. From the moment you step
off the boat it’s quite clear that Bako is a protected area. For a start the
wooden chalets and resthouses are surrounded by virgin jungle, and what’s
more, wildlife is everywhere.
Almost every type of vegetation in Borneo is found here - 25 distinct types of
vegetation form seven complete ecosystems from beach vegetation and
mangrove forest to dipterocarp rainforest.
The constant erosion over millions of years, had
turned Bako into a picturesque coastline of steep cliffs, rocky head-lands and
many stretches of sandy bays. The erosion caused by constant waves at the base
of cliffs had carved and created many of the rocks into sea arches and sea
stacks. Beautiful sandstone formation featuring pink and iron patterns on cliff
faces can be seen along most of the coastline.
Within
the Park, it is not uncommon to see troops of long-tailed Macaques and
silver-leaf monkeys along with giant monitor lizards, plantain squirrels,
wild boars and mouse deers.
The most significant animal in the Park is the bizzare long nosed proboscis monkeys found only in Borneo island.
Left: Proboscis Monkey - The
local Malays call it Monyet Belanda, which means Dutchman monkey, as a
joke on European traders and colonials. Both were hairy, had big red noses
and pot bellies!
Their nose is so distracting that we often miss out how colourful they
are: contrasting with their warm red-brown coats, they have a creamy
chest, with long grey gloves and stockings and long white tails. They may
have orange shoulders and a little cap of darker red fur.
Proboscis Monkey (Photo: An Schoonen)
Only in Borneo.
Only in mangrove swamps or forests along rivers.
The Proboscis eats mainly leaves (95% of their diet).
Because it feeds and lives in mangrove and riverside forests, the draining
of wetlands and development along riverbanks for agricultural purposes and
human settlement are its biggest threat through habitat loss.
In 1977, there were about 6,400 of them in Sarawak, but now there are only
about 1,000, with perhaps another 2,000 in Sabah and 4,000 in Kalimantan.
The male averages 24kg in weight, twice as
much as the female.
wimming, beach combing at low tide and sunset
watching are popular activities along the sandy bays of the Park. Bako National
Park is truly an ideal place for nature lovers and eco-minded adventurers.
The seaspray, wave action
and the wind have also carved out magnificent sea arches and sea stacks at the
base of the cliffs, some rearing above the waves like a mighty serpent's head.
The attractive sandstone formations appear as pink and iron patterns on the
cliff faces. Further inland, waterfalls tumble down into freshwater pools in a
tranquil and idyllic jungle setting.
There is a nominal entry fee for all National
Parks in Sarawak. Photo permits are also required. Check with the National Parks
and Wildlife Office in Kuching or the Sarawak Tourism Board for the latest fee
structure. Day trippers to Bako can obtain a permit and pay any fees at the boat
jetty in Kampung Bako.
Pitcher Plant
The Pitcher-plant is a carnivorous
plant, a meat eater.
Apparently insects, particularly certain flies, find the colours of the plant
attractive.
The inside of the tubular shaped leaf is lined with downward pointing hairs.
These hairs block an insect from climbing up the tube and escaping. The fluid in
the bottom of the tube contains digestive juices that will consume the insect
prey.
